How to train a dog to Leave it

[CRYROLFE]

Can't wait to see a video....w/ a new mouthy pup I really need this one!

[Grhyno]

I just finished with this command, and it was the end result of an exercise to teach good eye contact. I hold a treat to the side of my dogs head, when he looks at me, and not at the treat, I give it to him. Repeat many times. When he/she gets good at that, I move the treat to a different location. When he looks I treat. Then I gradually start asking for more eye contact before he gets the treat. Then I move to putting it on my knee (I'm kneeling in front of him), now when I do this part I say 'leave it'. Then when he gives me eye contact I say 'take it'. Once I was done with this exercise many times I saw that I could say 'leave it' with toys, the cat, objects around the house and garbage we pass on the street. Hope that helps!

Gail

[ddpowell]

I've been teaching our GSD 'leave it', but so far only for objects in her mouth. She's extremely clever and really highlights why only positive training can work to an extent.

If i have the clicker in my hand, or she knows i have treats - she'll leave it straight away, but when i say it spontaneously she just keeps on tugging or biting etc.

I don't correct her as she's only 13 weeks old - but is she smart enough already to comprehend a correction in this instance?

and if so, how would you suggest applying it to leave it?

[Mike D'Abruzzo]

If the object is already in the pups mouth, it sounds like what you really want to teach is "out" which is to drop what the dog already has. "leave it" will be for disengaging with a target before it is in the dog's mouth.

I just noticed I have to add the "how to" still for this in the members area so I guess I'll start it here:

It is best taught during play - especially during tug.

When you are playing tug with the pup, every once in a while hold the tug very still and close to you so that there is very little "give" and so the game isn't very fun.

Calmly repeat the word "out". It may take a minute, but generally the dogs will eventually get bored and release the object.

When that happens immediately make the game fun again - so the pup learns that he will actually benefit from releasing.

The last time you have the pup "out" have a good treat to give the pup so that there will always be something positive for releasing, but at the same time the game isn't very fun once you start saying "out" so the pup learns overtime that hanging on is futile - and if there is any chance of getting it back and having fun he should release.

For extra difficult dogs you can use two of the same toys. whether it be tugs or balls - you do the same exercise but with one hand hold the "held" object still and with the other hand make the clone object lively. when the dog releases the "held" object you throw or start playing with thge other object with the dog. Tugs with squeakers work well for this.

When the dog does well at this stage you can keep the clone object in a pocket or draped over your shoulder. If the dog is anticipating that you will give the other object you may not have to wave it anymore.

At the point when you can always keep the clone object pocketed you can actually start using the one toy technique again - because you can just give back the same toy or give the treat at the end.

Phase 2 - will basically be adding a mild leash correction after the standard "no" warning, which (depending on what collar you are using) is generally a mild horizontal correction directed toward YOU, which could be light wrist flicks or steady/uncomfortable pull. Be sure to not do anything that is harsh. When you combine mild corrections with the fact that the game isn't going to be fun at that point the dog will usually comply pretty willingly.

and phase 3 - will be adding an off-leash correction after the warning. This is generally adding a remote citronella correction or LOW level e-stimulation the same time as the leash correction and then phasing off the leash correction and then doing it without the leash on the dog. Same concept here - LESS correction is better and is usually all that is necessary if you didn't skip steps. The fact that dog usually getsthe object back anyway will still motivate the dog more than anything else.

Even if i accidentally drop my sandwich, and i dont want the dog to eat it... after i have the dog "out" or "leave it" I will still give a little piece to the dog so that they still feel it was somehow worthwhile listening.

The key is always putting in the time during phase 1 and you barely have to deal with the corrections at the later phases since the dog learns it is more beneficial anyway to just go by the rules.

Hope this helps.

[SteveKesslerCFDT]

Hi Mike,
I just wanted to add that after I have gone still and brought the tug to my body, I keep my fingers closed and actually go very soft in my hands. Just a reminder for people not to tug back at all, just calmly end the game, repeating the word out. I had a 100 lb. woman amazed yesterday because she tried to tug all week, but became frustrated because her technique was off and her 80 pound Bull Terrier was "controlling the game" not good. Five minutes into the lesson, voila! No tension, almost instant release.

Steve

[Mike D'Abruzzo]

Tug with a bull terrier is no joke! Glad to see you made it to the UK and back on your feet. Good to know we got foundation style training their now! Need to catch up! Saw your photo's - gorgeous!

Thanks for the add - tricky explaining how not to tug yourself when the dog is tugging!

[SteveKesslerCFDT]

So true Mike. The bull terriers are everywhere here in the UK. Great dogs, super drive!! But most have not ever tugged as some information here is, may I say "rubbish".
Dave the bull terrier I'm training is a year old and never tugged. Lives on ten acres yet has restless spirit issues. After some supervised tug sessions the owners are amazed at how much Dave has calmed down. As I like to explain it. Imagine a fine artisit with paint canvas and easel in front of them, tied in a straight jacket. Dave took to tugging like a fish to water. And boy will he work for it too! Also he holds his sit stay til I free him upindefinitely now. Just finishing phase 1. Keep you updated. As for me. The training has really helped get me back on my feet. My restless spirit is also improving.
Best,
Steve

[Mike D'Abruzzo]

Even though I have only been to UK once, does see they are very popular there. I have really been pushing the tug work here, not just for the restless spirit, but also because almost everything you need to teach the dog about control and controling impulses can be done through the tug. and, the drivier the dog is for it the better.

It is true what you say that there are more trainers preaching not to tug than ones that do, but that is only because they dont completely understand the concept or understand it and realize that if it is done wrong it can cause more harm than good. As we know, done correctly, it is practically essential for good rehab work.

Wish you were here... lots going on! Look for some interesting stuff coming up.

[balkis]

Hi Mike and Steve,

It is sooooo true. I play tug with Stitch all the time and I realized some time ago the quickest way for me to get Stitchy to "release" is for me to loosen my grip. This technique also works with pretty much anything else he has in his mouth - a tennis ball, his furry little "tail" toy, his jolly ball. Any time I try to take something from him when he doesn't "leave it" - if I loosen my grip/touch on the item - he will drop it.

I also have realized that if I am bending over him (he is laying down with the item between his paws) after he "leaves it" and I try to pick the item up -- he grabs it again. BUT if I stand up and wait a second or two (after he "leaves it") and then I go pick the item up he will not try to grab it. So somehow my standing up straight vs. bending down over him to pick up the item makes a difference to him.

Just my two cents!


Linda